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Edinburgh is the capital city of Scotland.
It is the second largest Scottish city, after
Glasgow, and the seventh-most populous in the United
Kingdom. The City of Edinburgh Council is one of
Scotland's 32 local government council areas.
Located in the south-east of Scotland, Edinburgh
lies on the east coast of the Central Belt, along
the Firth of Forth, near the North Sea. Owing to its
rugged setting and vast collection of Medieval and
Georgian architecture, including numerous stone
tenements, it is often considered one of the most
picturesque cities in Europe.
The city forms part of the City of Edinburgh council
area; the city council area includes urban Edinburgh
and a 30-square-mile (78 km2) rural area.
Edinburgh is the seat of the Scottish Parliament.
The city was one of the major centres of the
Enlightenment, led by the University of Edinburgh,
earning it the nickname Athens of the North. The Old
Town and New Town districts of Edinburgh were listed
as a UNESCO World Heritage Site in 1995. There are
over 4,500 listed buildings within the city. In the
2008 mid year population estimates, Edinburgh had a
total resident population of 471,650. Edinburgh is
well-known for the annual Edinburgh Festival, a
collection of official and independent festivals
held annually over about four weeks from early
August. The number of visitors attracted to
Edinburgh for the Festival is roughly equal to the
settled population of the city. The most famous of
these events are the Edinburgh Fringe (the largest
performing arts festival in the world), the
Edinburgh International Festival, the Edinburgh
Military Tattoo, and the Edinburgh International
Book Festival.
Other notable events include the Hogmanay street
party (31 December), Burns Night (25 January), St.
Andrew's Day (30 November), and the Beltane Fire
Festival (30 April).
The city attracts 1 million overseas visitors a
year, making it the second most visited tourist
destination in the United Kingdom, after London.
In a 2009 YouGov poll, Edinburgh was voted the "most
desirable city to live in the UK".
Nicknames
The city is affectionately nicknamed Auld Reekie
(Scots for Old Smoky), because when buildings were
heated by coal and wood fires, chimneys would spew
thick columns of smoke into the air. The colloquial
pronunciation "Embra" or "Embro" has also been used
as in Robert Garioch's Embro to the Ploy
Some have called Edinburgh the Athens of the North.
It is also known by several Latin names; Aneda or
Edina. The adjectival form of the latter, Edinensis,
can be seen inscribed on many educational buildings.
Edinburgh has also been known as Dunedin, deriving
from the Scottish Gaelic, Důn Čideann. Dunedin, New
Zealand, was originally called "New Edinburgh" and
is still nicknamed the "Edinburgh of the South". The
Scots poets Robert Burns and Robert Fergusson
sometimes used the city's Latin name, Edina. Ben
Jonson described it as Britain's other eye, and Sir
Walter Scott referred to the city as yon Empress of
the North.
Areas
Edinburgh, the capital of Scotland, is divided into
areas that generally encompass a park (sometimes
known as "links"), a main local street (i.e. street
of local retail shops), a high street (the historic
main street, not always the same as the main local
street, such as in Corstorphine) and residential
buildings. In Edinburgh many residences are
tenements, although the more southern and western
parts of the city have traditionally been more
affluent and have a greater number of detached and
semi-detached villas.
The historic centre of Edinburgh is divided into two
by the broad green swath of Princes Street Gardens.
To the south the view is dominated by Edinburgh
Castle, perched atop the extinct volcanic crag, and
the long sweep of the Old Town trailing after it
along the ridge. To the north lies Princes Street
and the New Town. The gardens were begun in 1816 on
bogland which had once been the Nor Loch.
To the immediate west of the castle lies the
financial district, housing insurance and banking
buildings. Probably the most noticeable building
here is the circular sandstone building that is the
Edinburgh International Conference Centre.
Old Town
The Old Town has preserved its medieval plan and
many Reformation-era buildings. One end is closed by
the castle and the main artery, the Royal Mile,
leads away from it; minor streets (called closes or
wynds) lead downhill on either side of the main
spine in a herringbone pattern. Large squares mark
the location of markets or surround public buildings
such as St. Giles' Cathedral and the Law Courts.
Other notable places nearby include the Royal Museum
of Scotland, Surgeons' Hall and McEwan Hall. The
street layout is typical of the old quarters of many
northern European cities, and where the castle
perches on top of a rocky crag (the remnants of an
extinct volcano) the Royal Mile runs down the crest
of a ridge from it. Due to space restrictions
imposed by the narrowness of the "tail", the Old
Town became home to some of the earliest "high rise"
residential buildings. Multi-storey dwellings known
as lands were the norm from the 1500s onwards with
ten and eleven stories being typical and one even
reaching fourteen stories. Additionally, numerous
vaults below street level were inhabited to
accommodate the influx of (mainly Irish) immigrants
during the Industrial Revolution. These continue to
fuel legends of an underground city to this day.
Today there are tours of Edinburgh which take you
into the underground city, Edinburgh Vaults.
New Town
The New Town was an 18th century solution to the
problem of an increasingly crowded Old Town. The
city had remained incredibly compact, confined to
the ridge running down from the castle. In 1766 a
competition to design the New Town was won by James
Craig, a 22-year-old architect. The plan that was
built created a rigid, ordered grid, which fitted
well with enlightenment ideas of rationality. The
principal street was to be George Street, which
follows the natural ridge to the north of the Old
Town. Either side of it are the other main streets
of Princes Street and Queen Street. Princes Street
has since become the main shopping street in
Edinburgh, and few Georgian buildings survive on it.
Linking these streets were a series of perpendicular
streets. At the east and west ends are St. Andrew
Square and Charlotte Square respectively. The latter
was designed by Robert Adam and is often considered
one of the finest Georgian squares in the world.
Bute House, the official residence of the First
Minister of Scotland, is on the north side of
Charlotte Square. Sitting in the glen between the
Old and New Towns was the Nor' Loch, which had been
both the city's water supply and place for dumping
sewage. By the 1820s it was drained. Some plans show
that a canal was intended[citation needed], but
Princes Street Gardens were created instead. Excess
soil from the construction of the buildings was
dumped into the loch, creating what is now The
Mound. In the mid-19th century the National Gallery
of Scotland and Royal Scottish Academy Building were
built on The Mound, and tunnels to Waverley Station
driven through it. The New Town was so successful
that it was extended greatly. The grid pattern was
not maintained, but rather a more picturesque layout
was created. Today the New Town is considered by
many to be one of the finest examples of Georgian
architecture and planning in the world.
South side
A popular residential part of the city is its south
side, comprising a number of areas including St
Leonards, Marchmont, Newington, Sciennes, The
Grange, Edinburgh "South side" is broadly analogous
to the area covered by the Burgh Muir, and grew in
popularity as a residential area following the
opening of the South Bridge. These areas are
particularly popular with families (many
well-regarded[citation needed] state and private
schools are located here), students (the central
University of Edinburgh campus is based around
George Square just north of Marchmont and the
Meadows, and Napier University has major campuses
around Merchiston & Morningside), and with
festival-goers. These areas are also the subject of
fictional work: Ian Rankin's Inspector Rebus lives
in Marchmont and worked in St Leonards; and
Morningside is the home of Muriel Spark's Miss Jean
Brodie. Today, the literary connection continues,
with the area being home to the authors J. K.
Rowling, Ian Rankin, and Alexander McCall Smith.
Leith
Main article: Leith
Leith is the port of Edinburgh. It still retains a
separate identity from Edinburgh, and it was a
matter of great resentment when, in 1920, the burgh
of Leith was merged into the county of Edinburgh.
Even today the parliamentary seat is known as
'Edinburgh North and Leith'. With the redevelopment
of Leith, Edinburgh has gained the business of a
number of cruise liner companies which now provide
cruises to Norway, Sweden, Denmark, Germany and the
Netherlands. Leith also has the Royal Yacht
Britannia, berthed behind the Ocean Terminal and
Easter Road, the home ground of Hibernian.
Geography
Bounded by the Firth of Forth to the north and the
Pentland Hills, which skirt the periphery of the
city to the south, Edinburgh lies in the eastern
portion of the Central Lowlands of Scotland. The
city sprawls over a landscape which is the product
of early volcanic activity and later periods of
intensive glaciation. Igneous activity between 350
and 400 million years ago, coupled with faulting led
to the dispersion of tough basalt volcanic plugs,
which predominate over much of the area. One such
example is Castle Rock which forced the advancing
icepack to divide, sheltering the softer rock and
forming a mile-long tail of material to the east,
creating a distinctive crag and tail formation.
Glacial erosion on the northern side of the crag
gouged a large valley resulting in the now drained
Nor Loch. This structure, along with a ravine to the
south, formed an ideal natural fortress which
Edinburgh Castle was built upon. Similarly, Arthur's
Seat is the remains of a volcano system dating from
the Carboniferous period, which was eroded by a
glacier moving from west to east during the ice age.
Erosive action such as plucking and abrasion exposed
the rocky crags to the west before leaving a tail of
deposited glacial material swept to the east. This
process formed the distinctive Salisbury Crags,
which formed a series of teschenite cliffs located
between Arthur's Seat and the city centre. The
residential areas of Marchmont and Bruntsfield are
built along a series of drumlin ridges located south
of the city centre which were deposited as the
glacier receded.
Other viewpoints in the city such as Calton Hill and
Corstorphine Hill are similar products of glacial
erosion. The Braid Hills and Blackford Hill are a
series of small summits to the south west of the
city commanding expansive views over the urban area
of Edinburgh and northwards to the Forth.
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